After three days of camping near the Red Mountain (Montana Roja), we’re ready for our next adventure. After hearing stories of life in an abandoned hacienda in the middle of nowhere, with no running water or electricity, we’re very much intrigued and decide to visit this “hippie heaven” ourselves. We’re met by the friendly “owner”, who kindly shows us around and concludes along the lines of “you’re welcome to stay as long as you like and use anything you see around”. I’m especially impressed by the open-air living room, with a fireplace in the middle. With the many beds across the two bedrooms, there’s room for all the travellers. We meet a couple from Hungary, who already live here for a month. It is to them that we owe a big thanks for making our stay here very memorable and enjoyable.

They deserve a brief introduction. Virginia (her travelling name) and Gyula are freshly-baked hippies. Two years ago they quit the jobs and city life all together and went abroad. After over a year in Spain, they arrived in the Canary Islands. Since they and us have spent the last years on the road, it was enjoyable to share the experiences over breakfast (which usually lasted till lunch!). And Gyula makes delicious coffee with cinnamon! So, when Virginia casually mentioned that its possible, and actually very easy, to travel around Europe completely free, I absolutely had to insist on hearing more. In short, you sleep in either campsites, squats or with couchsurfers, hitchkike your way around the countries and eat food thrown away by the supermarkets. The last part in particular caught my attention – I’ve read about the practice and ideology behind dumpster diving while still living in London. To summarise – big shops daily throw away large quantities of foods that is still suitable for eating, but has a degraded visual appearance (eg an apple that’s gone a little soft), while there are always people starving somewhere in the world. The dumpster diving lifestyle is frequently accompanied by the idea of liberating oneself from being dependant on money. So, when the opportunity presented itself to add real experience to my theoretical knowledge, I was ready to go.

With the sun setting we make our way to the town for our first dumpster diving experience. There are already several people by the supermarket when we get there, and a few more arrive as the 10 pm closing time nears. Everyone is in a good mood, greetings are exchanged and conversation flows as if this is a group of friends or members of some club. A smiling punk from Britain with several front teeth missing, a tidy and blond-haired Scandinavian, several really friendly locals in clean clothes, one of them looks like he just came from a gym, still wearing his sharp tracksuit bottoms. When the shop closes, the workers take out several large bags of “rubbish”. I get a strong feeling they know exactly what we’re waiting for. Once they’re gone, the bags are pulled out onto the pavement, their contents examined in the dim light of flash-lights and everyone helps themselves to as much of everything as they like. All the remains are carefully packed back into the sacks and is returned to the dumpster. Some advice about other dumpsters in the town worthy of attention is shared and everyone goes their own way. The Hungarians explain that the rules of the game vary from place to place, but I bet the excitement is just the same – you never know what you’re going to find this time, and how much of it too. This day was a great success though and we make our way back carrying several bags full of goodies. Back at home we go over the findings once more and wash everything conserving the precious water that has to be brought from the town. Here’s what we got: many different vegetables and fruit, a large box of eggs, some bread and cheese and even a bag of muffins! We start the fire and prepare a late but delicious dinner. The food we brought back lasted us for another two days (that’s feeding 4 people). What’s especially enjoyable is that the findings vary each time, so you have the pleasure of improvising on your meals. So, while the dinner is slowly prepared, a bottle of wine appears from somewhere and the conversations go on indefinitely. At one of these occasions Virginia and Gyula also tell us about Rainbow Gatherings. And also about how the little money they need they make by doing fire juggling performances in towns. Zygis also joins them for the morning play sessions, while I read a book. Such an idyllic time. And it doesn’t cost a penny :)

Po trijų dienų stovyklavimo prie Raudono kalno (Montana Roja) siandien mes pasiruošę naujam nuotykiui. Suintriguoti pasakojimų apie gyvenimą fazendoj vidury niekur, be elektros ir vandens, mes nusprendžiam aplankyti šį taip vadinamą “hipių rojų”. Mus pasitinka fazendos “šeiminikas” ir viską maloniai aprodo. Man ypatingą įspūdį paliko “svetainė” po atviru dangumi su laužaviete centre. Lovų čia daug ir vietos matyt užtenka visiems užklystantiems keliauninkams. Šiuo metu čia jau mėnesį svečiuojasi vengrų porelė. Jų dėka mūsų viešnagė šioje šalia pomidorų plantacijos įkurtoje fazendoje buvo itin maloni ir įsimintina.

Tad saulei leidžiantis išsiruošėm į miestelį “dumpsterdivint” arba “recyclint” kaip tai vadina Ispanai. Prie parduotuvės jau laukė pora žmonių. Vėliau jų atėjo dar daugiau. Visi labinasi ir šnekučiuojasi kaip draugai, kaip kažkokios bendruomenės nariai. Pankas britas be dantų, tvarkingai apsirengęs šviesiaplaukis skandinavas, pora tvarkingai atrodančių ir labai draugiškų vietinių, vienas netgi labai sportiškas su “išeiginiais” treningais. Parduotuvė užsidarė ir pardavėjai išnešė šiukšlių maišus. Jie puikia žino, ko čia tie žmonės laukia. Maišai buvo ištraukti, “ištyrinėti”, grobis draugiškai pasidalintas, visa kita surinkta ir vėl išmesta į konteinerį. Gana greita ir tvarkinga operacija. Kažkas dar pasidalino patarimais apie kitus konteinerius ir visi išsiskirstė kas sau. Bet pasak vengrų taip būna ne visur ir kiekvienoj vietoj “žaidimo” taisyklės truputį skiriasi. Užtai azartas turbūt visur vienodas, nes niekada nežinai, kiek ir ko rasi. Bet ši diena buvo sėkminga ir mes su pora pilnų krepšių per tamsos apgaubtas dykynes traukiam atgalios. Grįžę žvakių šviesoje apžiūrim grobį ir tausodami iš miestelio parneštą vandenį viską nuplaunam: daugybę daržovių ir vaisių, kiaušinius, duoną, truputį sūrio ir netgi keksiukų. Užsikuriam laužą ir gaminamės vėlyvą bet labai skanią vakarienę. Beje iš rasto maisto pasigaminom ne tik tą vakarienę, bet ir daugybę patiekalų per ateinančias dvi dienas. Įdomu, tai kad kai vakarienė priklauso nuo radybų, išsiugdo puikus improvizacijos ir gaminimo “iš to ką turi” jausmas. Taigi vakaras užsitęsia, iš kažkur atsiranda butelis vyno, o kalbų temos sėdint aplink laužą nesenka. Čia vengrai papasakojo mums ir apie vaivorykštės susitikimus. Beje, Virginija ir Gyula, truputį reikalingų pinigų užsidirba gatvėje darydami pasirodymus su ugnimi. Tad po ilgų pusryčių jie praktikuojasi savo judesius. Prie jų prisideda ir Žygis. Aš sėdžiu ir skaitau knygą. Kokia idilė šiame vėjo ir smėlio karalystėje. O svarbiausia, tai nieko nekainuoja :)